We’ve all heard of retinol. It’s the absolute holy grail; cream of the crop; the number one ingredient that comes up whenever someone mentions anything anti-aging. I’ve heard it, you’ve heard, we’ve all heard it. Retinol is one of the most studied and most trusted ingredients in skincare, but how do we use it?

It’s not an easy addition to your skincare routine, that’s for sure. I personally had a bad experience when I first started it; but that’s also because I was too impatient and started using it everyday, right away. My skin peeled, stung, and went red for a whole fortnight! I looked like an oompa loompa! 

It took me some time to repair my skin barrier and it took me even longer before I dared come into vicinity of a retinol product. A lot of convincing and research was needed, before I actually dared put it on my face again. Once I’ve mastered the technique and frequency, it was all sailing from then. My skin has never looked more radiant and my fine lines have diminished incredibly!

Retinol is a wonderful ingredient that does wonders, but it is a little tricky to use. Don’t you worry though, I’m here to tell you all about it as well as the tips and tricks I’ve learned along the way. 

What is retinol

Retinol is a form of vitamin A that is used in skincare to reduce fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone by boosting collagen production and increasing cell turnover. 

• Cell Turnover: It speeds up how fast your skin sheds dead cells and makes new ones.

• Collagen Production: It goes deep into the skin layer to build firmness and elasticity.

It’s a slow process that rewards consistency far more than intensity, don’t expect it to transform your skin overnight. Any product that promises overnight transformation is not being honest with you! 

Retinol here works slowly and steadily. It helps your skin look a little smoother and more even, week by week, in a way you’ll notice before anyone says a word. 

The golden rule: low and slow

Here’s where I went wrong in the first place. I was overcome by all the false promises of instantaneous smooth skin that I went real fast and real hard, right from the start. It was a painful mistake of; too much, too soon. My skin wasn’t used to retinol and it needed time to adjust. Well guess what? I did not give it time at all. That led to me looking like a freaking oompa loompa. It was a painful lesson to say the least.

The major takeaway from this lesson, for me and you, is that you need to go slow. You can’t rush a tried-and-true process. 

The gentle way is simple, start introducing retinol to your routine only once a week, at night, and gradually increase it from there. Give your skin time to settle in and get used to it. Use only a small pea-sized amount of your retinol cream or a few drops of serum. That really is all you need for your whole face. More is not better here, or you might just risk ruining your skin. Build up your tolerance slowly and after a few weeks, once your skin is more comfortable, you can use it a little more often. Let your skin set the pace, don’t rush it.

Here’s a little schedule that you could follow:

• Week 1: Apply once a week.

• Weeks 2 to 3: Apply twice a week.

• Weeks 4 to 6: Apply three times a week.

• After 6 weeks: Move to every second night or every night if your skin shows no redness or flaking.

Remember! Let your skin set the pace, don’t rush it! Give it more time in between uses if you need to.

You might feel a little dryness or tightness early on, that’s completely normal as your skin adjusts. Simply ease back and go back to fewer nights in between, add a comforting moisturiser, and build it up again more slowly. There’s no prize for rushing it.

When and how to use it

Retinol belongs to the evening. It’s best used at night, on clean skin, as part of winding down.

A simple order to begin your retinol journey would be:

1. Cleanse: Wash your face with a gentle cleanser

2. Moisturize: Apply a thin, even layer of a gentle, hydrating moisturizer. 

3. Wait: Let the moisturizer sit for about 60 seconds until it sinks into your skin. 

4. Retinol: Squeeze out a pea-sized amount of your retinol product and spread it gently over your face. 

5. Second Moisturizer: Finish with a final layer of moisturizer to lock everything in. 

I learned that this is called the sandwich method. It’s a great technique to prevent redness and dryness that comes with retinol use. Hands down, this made a difference to my skin when I tried retinol again. Also, remember to wear sunscreen the next morning. Retinol makes your skin more sensitive to the sun so daytime SPF is an absolute must!

Once you’ve incorporated retinol into your routine, you could also skip the first moisturiser layer and apply your retinol directly. My little hack is to follow up with a nourishing oil like jojoba oil just to keep everything hydrated and nourished. It has worked wonders for me. 

A few honest cautions

• Introduce one new thing at a time. If you're starting retinol, hold off on adding other strong actives (like exfoliating acids) on the same nights. Give your skin room to adjust to one change before making another.

• Sensitive skin can absolutely use retinol, the trick is simply going slower and keeping skin well moisturised. If your skin is very reactive or you have a specific condition, it's worth a quick word with your doctor or dermatologist first.

• If you're pregnant or breastfeeding, retinol isn't generally recommended. Set it aside for now and speak to your doctor about gentler alternatives.

Give it time

Here’s the part that most people need to hear; give it time. Retinol works gradually and it rewards patience and consistency far more than it rewards doing too much. It was something that I had to learn after my first mishap with retinol. The second time round, when I took it slowly and gently, I noticed my skin looking smoother and more even after weeks of steady use, with more visible results over a few months. 

So, my advice to you, is to begin gently. Listen to your skin and don’t overdo it. Put a pause to retinol when necessary and always, hydrate, hydrate, hydrate. Don’t skimp out on hydration! 

Why we created Sérum Minuit

After my first mishap with retinol, I realised that many people, like me, needed something simpler that wouldn’t be too damaging to our skin. So, I created Sérum Minuit, retinol paired with peptides to rebuild your skin from the inside out. I believe that skincare should work with you rather than be complicated and possibly destroy your skin. The peptides in this serum helps keep your skin moisturised and hydrated while the retinol works quietly beneath it to smoothen your fine lines away. 

Not to toot my own horn, but this retinol serum is one the best I’ve tried. After multiple trial and errors during product development, I’m proud to showcase this version of Sérum Minuit, it has all the benefits of retinol without the danger that comes with it.